SOUTH AFRICA
(Saturday 04 August 2012 - Sunday 03 February 2013)
Our pins: Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, Simon's Town, Gordon’s Bay, Hermanus, Cape Agulhas, Struisbaai, Bredasdorp, Stellenbosch, Calvinia, Kuruman, Mcarthy's Rest
Cape Town – Struisbaai – Mcarthy’s Rest: A total route of 2070 km has been covered in 6 months and so made our space-time more indefinite than ever. For the first time, we were looking for the deeper meaning of "luck" and "time" within our endless travel project while at the same time a large South African community of Afrikaners (including an Irish and a British) was standing by us like nobody else so far.
Our pins: Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, Simon's Town, Gordon’s Bay, Hermanus, Cape Agulhas, Struisbaai, Bredasdorp, Stellenbosch, Calvinia, Kuruman, Mcarthy's Rest
Cape Town – Struisbaai – Mcarthy’s Rest: A total route of 2070 km has been covered in 6 months and so made our space-time more indefinite than ever. For the first time, we were looking for the deeper meaning of "luck" and "time" within our endless travel project while at the same time a large South African community of Afrikaners (including an Irish and a British) was standing by us like nobody else so far.
Saturday morning (04/08), we landed at the International Airport of Cape Town flying with Air Namibia through Windhoek, crossing overnight the Equator and landing in the Southern Hemisphere. Despite of the fears and worries that many locals in Ghana tried to fill us about the flight safety and so on, both flights were simply the best and we dare to say that they are in our TOP3. The airport in Accra was decent, the flights were not even a minute delayed, the aircrafts were brand new, the staff was very kind and polite and for the first time we asked and got double portions of food. Despite the fact that there is no competition -in European terms- within the African airlines industry that influences the prices and the overall customer experience, there are several airlines that are doing fine like Air Namibia, Air Nigeria, South African Airlines etc.
Cape Town City Centre |
The next 47
days until Wednesday (19/09) when Zikos’s container arrived, we totally escaped
from our daily travel routine and in some terms we became tourists trying to
reasonably spend our savings by not doing tourist activities! We did not climb
into the Table Mountain (the most famous natural landmark in the Mother City)
or even dive in a cage to see sharks. Cape Town and South Africa in general
attract thousands of tourists every year which means that there is an endless
range of activities, extreme sports as well as a number of National Parks that
are generously available to the hordes of Germans, Swiss and English youngsters
that visit SA for two weeks and finally leaving with the impression that the
whole Africa is quite similar to what they experienced in SA.
V&A Waterfront & Signal Hill |
Talking
about the Pin Project, before landing to SA, we had already regretted our
decision not to continue driving all the way down from Ghana and so crossing
Nigeria, both Congos and off course Cameroon. The fact that the Ghanaian
shipping agent cheated us on his final quotation by not mentioning the whole
cost of the shipment from Tema to Cape Town, played a critical role. Since we
arrived, his partner and clearing agent from Durban asked for another 2000 USD
for clearing the cargo while he kept threatening us of not clearing the car when
we let him know that we would not make use of his “expensive” services.
Eventually, we managed by ourselves to find another clearing agent through the
help of the Happag Lloyd guys (the shipping company) who advised us to get a
quote from Wayne and ECONOTRANS who, eventually, asked half of the money.
What is more, despite the fact that the
initial transit time promised by the Ghanaian agent was 18 days, Zikos arrived
in Cape Town Harbour after 45 days following all the West Africa scenic route.
This is translated in extra money on food and accommodation that were not in
our plans and budget. For the records, the ship WADI ALRAYAN carried Zikos
through Lome and Lagos to Durban and then the container was loaded to the ship HANJIN ROTTERDAM that carried him
in Cape Town through Port Elizabeth. What a stressful route!
Not to mention the misuse of one
of our VISA debit cards and the electronic transactions in hotel reservations and
other purchases that we found out few days before leaving that amounted to approximately
1.200 EURO. We have no idea how this happened as we never used our card except
withdrawals. However, some locals told us how sophisticated means and ways they
implement to steal your pin and personal details and we realized how unsafe
someone may feel in SA.
Mouille Point Llighthouse |
Georgia & Feraidoon |
In Cape Town,
we also met a Greek couple, Kostas and Ariadni who were the most recent
immigrants from Greece looking for a better future. They left everything back
in Greece and moved to Cape Town with Kostas to have a very good contract and
Ariadni to become very quickly one of the major and valued teachers of the
Greek Community Private School in Cape Town. We spent some time together and we
realized why Greeks are well known for their guts, their hard work and their
concentration on delivering results. Good luck Kostas & Ariadni! May God
bless you and make all your dreams come true.
On Tuesday
(18/09), we unsealed the container and Zikos was again in the streets. While it
was a bit awkward for us to drive on the left side of the road (in a left-hand
car), it did not take us a lot of time to get used to it very quickly. The more
you practice, the faster you learn and, in any case, we had a long route to
cover driving the opposite direction (in almost all southern African countries
you drive on the left due to the British influence the last 50 years).
Hermanus |
Heading
east, we found a decent Backpackers in Gordon’s Bay where we camped for two
nights due to the rain. On Saturday (22/09), we woke up early as the route
included a historic moment in our journey. After about 5 months, we were
stepping our foot in the original southernmost tip of Africa at Cape Agulhas
thus putting a critical pin in our world travelling map. Before arriving to
Cape Agulhas, we stopped in Hermanus which is famous for its excellent natural
whale viewpoints which visit the bay from May to November for mating and giving
birth before setting south to Antarctica.
Zikos in L'Agulhas |
We quickly parked the car and walked 150 meters to the
milestone where the two oceans formally meet according to the International
Hydrographic Organization. While taking our historic photos, someone was
opening our car (for the third time in our trip) very professionally and stealing
all our valuable belongings. Along with our wallets (cash, credit cards, ID,
driving license etc) cell phone, laptop, hard disks, ipod and so on, he took
our passports that were in our purses. We guess that taking our passports was
not in his plans as a Greek passport in Africa is totally useless (we need visa
for every single country and only a few know where to spot our country in the
map). However, it does not mean that for us it was not the most valuable stuff
for the rest of our travel dream.
Look closer to see him carrying our stuff! |
We immediately went to the local police
station of Struisbaai in order to report the theft and the officers were
shocked of how things happened. The whole region is crime free and the local
community (Afrikaners, Khosa and coloured Southafricans) live altogether
without any issues. Moreover, in our attempt to get some help from our Cape
Town Consulate, Mr. Kostas Soulios, he let us know that the only thing he can
do is to issue a temporary passport (which is literally a piece of A4 paper
that only lets you fly back to your country in case of lost or stolen passport
when you are traveling abroad) without any guarantee that we can go further and
apply for visas as we usually do before visiting a country. Another shock came
to devastate us when our Consulate informed us that, according to a stupid law,
when you lose your passport (or it is stolen) you have to wait for three months
in order to be able to re-apply (if it is your second time, the penalty period
is a year).
At the same time we had started planning
how to ship the car back to Europe and book one way tickets to Greece, some
people decided that the show must go on! First Cornel that we met at the
Backpackers (Cape Agulhas BP) of Struisbaai and his parents, Mr. Somarious
& Mrs. Isabelle who “adopted” us for the first three days, made us feeling
better. Then Erin (Cornel’s sister) and her husband Malan organized our
accommodation at the Cape Agulhas Backpackers for as long as we stay in Struisbaai. And
because the best way to wait for something is to be busy, Erin managed to find
us jobs and so make our living for the next months without spending a cent from
our savings. Finally, Riaan and Katrina (the Irish of the story!) agreed to
employ us in their businesses without having any idea about us, our background
or even our face! They just answered Erin’s phone call and came to meet us!
In the meanwhile, our Consulate Mr. Kostas
Soulios and Officer de Bruin from the local police station borrowed us some
money (2500 ZAR in total) for the first few days. Moreover, our friends and
members of the Greek VitaraClub that follow our expedition, gathered 620 euros
by organizing a fund raising initiative in order to get a new laptop and so
bridge the communication gap.
Nikos at the Michael Collins |
Even though the basic salary is 12-15 ZAR per hour (equals to 1,5 euro per day) (Nikos was getting 12 rand and Georgia 13 rand at the doggy salon and 15 rand per hour at the backpackers), we managed to enjoy everything and not neglect our basic needs (accommodation, food and drinks). What is more, the tip that comes with services like food and drinks boosted our earnings in the long term (plus the commission that Georgia was getting from the BP bar). In European terms, 8-10 euros per day are not enough for making your living but if you manage to balance your low income and split it wisely, then you make your life easier and you enjoy your staying everywhere.
Georgia at Poochie Boobles |
The big Greek family |
Georgia & George |
Sam & Georgia |
Francois |
Riaan & Nikos |
Georgia & Katrina |
The four months of our passports penalty passed and the last Saturday
before our departure (21/06), we organised a big Greek Party at the Michael
Collins Irish Pub with traditional chickpea and beans soups. Everyone was there to party
with us, express his gratitude and pleasure for meeting two “lazy” Greeks that
do not break plates any more, give us some souvenirs and wish good luck for the
rest of our trip.
At the Cape Agulhas Backpackers, we met a lot of people. But it was only a few of them that we will not forget. Peter and Cristina, a coule from Germany that were also traveling around Africa and Mr. Graham Derek Barker or Geezer, a British legend of motorbikes and excellent gentlemen will be in our hearts forever.
Cristina, Georgia & Peter |
Geezer |
Georgia & Erin |
Cornel & Stef |
Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for all the support, the love and the things that you shared with us. We are grateful to you.
Georgia tries as mush as wine she can! |
Arriving in Cape Town, we got our passports but we had to sort out also the
three months extension permit of stay that was previously organized by an
external immigration's agency. Unfortunately, our application was on time (back
on September) but the South African bureaucracy reminded us the Greek mentality
and way of working (crapped, late and lazy). Eventually, the only official
document we got back that proved our legal stay in the country was the initial
application stamped and signed as “Pending Application”. Technically, nobody
could prove when we entered in the country (without the stolen passports) as
well as accuse us of being illegally in the country. However, because of the
brand new passports that didn't have a single entry stamp, the Namibian officials
denied to give us a tourist visa no matter what documents we showed them from
the SA police, the application from the Home Affairs and so on. At that stage,
we decided to change our plan and head north to Botswana where Greeks do not
need visa and so apply for a Namibian visa in Gaborone.
Within 2 days, we covered a distance of 1060 km towards the Botswana border and
so crossed the vast and rugged Northern Cape. We stayed overnight in two small
villages on our way (Calvinia and Kuruman). Needless to say that we were quite
anxious about the passports and “pending application” for extension of stay permit
and how the officials at the borders
would see the whole thing. On the other hand, we had so much paperwork that we
could explain every single enquiry or stupid question like the ones that stupid
border officials are used to make.
Regarding the Afrikaners, the impressions and feelings are very positive. Afrikaners love three things. Brandy with cola, braai (or bbq) and rugby & cricket. They can drink a lot and they enjoy drinking more than anything else. We thought that Greeks drink quite a lot but now we can assure anybody that Afrikaners can drink more than anybody else in the world. And they enjoy it!
However, the last years the government of Jacob Zuma (the current President of SA) has dramatically reversed the roles and has put a veto in the process of recruitment primarily in the public sector and also in the private for promotion and prioritization of the blacks, coloured and then the whites no matter how educated, cultured and experienced is someone. Unfortunately, the racial racism is still the biggest challenge while the gap between the classes (and not the colors) seems to get bridged as the time goes by and more and more generations get proper education.
We liked: The overall experience of these 4 months in Struisbaai made us to reevaluate many things about the trip itself but also for life in general. Moreover, it was the first time that we received financial help from some people that really enjoy what we are doing (VitaraClub) and also received mental and physical support from people that we first met (all the local community).
We saw: Like a rainbow (a term used by Archbishop D. Tutu), South Africa is composed of a palette of "colors", social classes, races and ethnic groups with a gap in-between that you cannot ignore.
We heard: Bad comments about the Greek financial situation.
Average price for diesel: 1,03 euro
Local currency: RAND – Exchange rate: 1 euro ≈ 11,5 RAND
Driving in South Africa: For the first time in our trip, we drove on the left side of the road and as we commented, everything is a matter of practice. We also drove local right-hand cars and we realized that the most difficult thing is to use your left hand to change the gears. We also experienced the practice of flashing the indication lights as a thank you from the car that overtakes you when you make some space for it. Finally, bakkie is the South African term for 4X4,pick-up and SUVs and the ratio in the country is 7 out of 10.
Typical landscape in Northern Cape |
On Sunday morning (03/02), after 120 km off road, we arrived at the border
post of Mcarthy's Rest. It was a quiet border post, the people from both sides
were really kind and helpful and especially from the SA side, they fully understood
the whole thing with the stolen passports, the new ones and the extended permit
of stay that never being granted. Despite the fact that there was no customs
authorities (and so nobody could stamp our Carnet), the head of the BP did some
phone calls and, all of a sudden, realized that he had such power to also stamp
SARS (the SA customs and tax authority) documents. It was not funny when he
first said that if we want this document (meaning the Carnet) to be stamped, we
have to go in that BP (600 km far from Mcarthy’s Rest) but at the end, we all
laughed with the “extra power” that someone gave him that Sunday morning..
Special note: The South Africa’s population is about 52 million (60
including the immigrants) with the Afrikaners (the white Dutch settlers that
first stepped foot at Cape Point) and the rest of whites (originally from the
UK, Holland, Germany etc) to count for approximately 3-4 million. The race,
color and ethnic differences in SA are chaotic and if someone says that he
knows everything about South Africa and its people, he most probably lies.
Regarding the Afrikaners, the impressions and feelings are very positive. Afrikaners love three things. Brandy with cola, braai (or bbq) and rugby & cricket. They can drink a lot and they enjoy drinking more than anything else. We thought that Greeks drink quite a lot but now we can assure anybody that Afrikaners can drink more than anybody else in the world. And they enjoy it!
What is more, they are hospitable, very open and generous people. They work
very hard and achieve results in an efficient way. Moreover, they are very
proud for their ancestors, their culture and their past. Most of them run huge
farms (it is the white South Africans that are called Boers) with cattles or
fruits and vegetables while every single small, medium or big business (from
tourism to industry) has a white “brain”. In any case, it is these people that
used to have and still have the opportunity and also it is part of their
culture to get proper education and follow a proper career according to the
western standards.
However, the last years the government of Jacob Zuma (the current President of SA) has dramatically reversed the roles and has put a veto in the process of recruitment primarily in the public sector and also in the private for promotion and prioritization of the blacks, coloured and then the whites no matter how educated, cultured and experienced is someone. Unfortunately, the racial racism is still the biggest challenge while the gap between the classes (and not the colors) seems to get bridged as the time goes by and more and more generations get proper education.
We liked: The overall experience of these 4 months in Struisbaai made us to reevaluate many things about the trip itself but also for life in general. Moreover, it was the first time that we received financial help from some people that really enjoy what we are doing (VitaraClub) and also received mental and physical support from people that we first met (all the local community).
We did not like: The anticipation of Zikos
for a long time and the decision to ship the car instead of driving all the way
down gave us a good lesson .
We saw: Like a rainbow (a term used by Archbishop D. Tutu), South Africa is composed of a palette of "colors", social classes, races and ethnic groups with a gap in-between that you cannot ignore.
We heard: Bad comments about the Greek financial situation.
Average price for diesel: 1,03 euro
Local currency: RAND – Exchange rate: 1 euro ≈ 11,5 RAND
Driving in South Africa: For the first time in our trip, we drove on the left side of the road and as we commented, everything is a matter of practice. We also drove local right-hand cars and we realized that the most difficult thing is to use your left hand to change the gears. We also experienced the practice of flashing the indication lights as a thank you from the car that overtakes you when you make some space for it. Finally, bakkie is the South African term for 4X4,pick-up and SUVs and the ratio in the country is 7 out of 10.
The loose gear |
Car: The day before the scheduled departure from
Struisbaai, the gear of the starter that was temporarily fixed in Mauritania,
broke. Cornel recommended to us an electrician in Bredasdorp and in two days he
ordered the part and repaired properly the starter. We also changed the engine
oil from 5W30 to 15W40 and we want to monitor the performance and fuel
consumption of the car as it is the first time we change the selection of the
oil viscosity which is supposed to be preferable for hot climates like in
Botswana and Namibia.
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