GHANA (Wednesday, July 18 - Friday 03 August 2012)
Our pins: Cape3points, Winneba, Cape Coast, Tema, Accra
Heading to the borders |
Elubo - Accra: Less than 500 km in our first English speaking country on our trip.. new people, new experiences and hard feelings all mixed in our new travel life.. something has changed in our daily routine.. at the end, Ghislain waved us goodbye for his superhuman attempt to cross the most tricky African borders..
Early in Wednesday morning, we left from our spacious hotel in Grand Bassam and headed to the Ghanaian borderline in Elubo. The route was quite boring without any off-road section while Ghislain stopped several times to "visit" the nature (he has tried every shit that can be eaten). In the Ivorian borders we stamped everything in success without any trouble. One more time, the local customs officer had not idea about the Carnet and how to fill it and we saw him to put the Zikos plate number in the field of "Exit point"!
All stamped!! |
In the Ghanaian borders, it was the first time that they asked for our immunizations certificates. It was also our first time that somebody tried to make our life difficult for no reason. A guy that self presented as "The vet", denied the entrance in the country unless we removed the scalp that was in the front of Zikos (found in Senegalese countryside by Ghislain). After a long conversation, we disapeared with our car without anybody can do something. Despite the fact that we asked for a kind of ID or certificate from "The vet", he never came up with anything relevant and this really pissed us off. It is very funny that the policeman spent more time to look Nikos' tattoo than finding out what happened with the vet and his request to take away the scalp. All in all, we were in Ghana will all our documents stamped by the local authorities!
Escape Eco-lodge |
This place can only be the heaven. The last three years, a Canadian-Ghanaian guy, was running the lodge in an eco-friendly way. Before our departure, we had also visited a similar eco-community close to our hometown, in North Evoia (Free & Real) and it was quite the same (without any economical orientation). Hand made bungalows from bamboo, water right from the well, eco-toilets with earthworms and sawdust instead of water pipes and small solar panels made up an amazing must-see destination. What is more, the geomorphology of the area was ideal for water sports like surfing especially before and after the rainy season.
Zikos in heaven! |
In Friday morning, we set for Cape Coast before arriving to Accra for the visas stuff. However, we did not manage to find a safe place to camp and we continued to the next village before the capital. It was in Winneba, a small fish village, where we found a really nice place to camp. In Manuel Guesthouse we spent our next two weeks surrounded by some very interesting people and having some unique experiences. In the meantime, time had come for some important decisions before continuing our trip.
From Senegal, we were thinking to put Zikos in a cargo ship heading to South Africa and so avoid Nigeria, Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Angola. Not only the crossing itself but also the visas seemed to be a headache for the majority of other travelers for these countries. Georgia had the last word and decided to the get the safe -but far more expensive- side. However, for three reasons, it is worthwhile to think twice if you are ever about to take such a decision:
1. West African shipping companies do not have the best reputation with a lot of hidden costs and charges not to be referred to their initial offer. TRUE
2. What is more, African airlines do not have also the best reputation. FALSE
3. Finally, we would stop our trip and be out of our daily driving-travelling routine for one month.. IT DEPENDS
Ghislain & Georgia |
Once again, you can follow Ghislain's blog: http://ghislainvoyage.over-blog.com/
Joe, Nikos, Georgia & Zikos |
Unfortunately, child slavery is a real fact in Ghana. Very briefly, in Lake Volta, north-east of Accra, net fishing is widespread and generates a huge income for local fishermen. However, the sea bed is very rocky and nets are getting destroyed. Guess what? To "buy" a 5 years old kid to untangle the nets, it's cheaper than to buy new nets. Most of these children die, are drown or get blind. No need to trace for the reasons of child trade. A family with 6-7 children sells one to raise some money for the rest. Pure mathematics.
James Kofi Anan |
Lost in hugs |
Canopy walk in Kakum NP |
After Kakum NP, we visited a wildlife reserve or Monkey Forest which is managed by a Dutch couple. They fell in love when they first visited Ghana and they decided to build a hostel there. The building site was still there as they never finished their initial project. They realized that nature and wild animals are in priority and they eventually devoted themselves to this sanctuary where they protect, feed and at the end release back to the forest monkeys, african civets, crocodiles, antelopes etc. We saw a tremendous passion, zeal and love for what they do. You should not miss it if you ever be there!
Sleeping beasts.. |
Elmina Castle |
My hands are not for hitting! |
In one of the days we also visited the Rehabilitation Center-Rescue camp for the children that were rescued in Lake Volta, which is also managed by JK Anan and is funded by the Hovde Foundation, an American Foundation that supports similar centers around the world (Peru, Kenya etc).
"My hands are not for hitting". The dominant sign within the entire Center as all kids are used to hit and be hit by their past masters and it is one of the bad habits they were "carrying" after the rescue. Without any education, heavily abused and mentally disabled, it was about 40 kids of all ages that made up the "new generation" of JK Anan. The smooth rehabilitation, education and the socialization of these children are the main concerns of Linda and the other people working in the Centre as social workers, cookers or as teachers.
Ope & Nikos building |
Come on guys.. We can make it! |
Good bye Zikos |
Very early on Friday morning, we departed from Winneba and headed to Tema, Ghana's port. After 3 hours in a terrible traffic jam (Ghana is supposed to be the worst ever within West Africa) we met the Ghanaian agent. We went together in their company's depot so as to load Zikos in a container. It was not the best for us to leave our "home" for a month or so. The customs officer did check nothing at all and he just noted the plate number, the chassis number and the container number! We wrapped the car, we sealed the box and waved goodbye to Zikos. Late in the evening, we took a flight with Air Namibia from Accra to Cape Town via Widhoek (the capital of Namibia). The best flight ever in brand new airplanes with great service without any delays. If you ever need to get a flight, try Air Namibia for sure!
Dr. John Evans Atta Mills |
During our stay in Ghana (24/07), the country lost their President, Dr. John Evans Atta Mills. The Ghanaians (like Nigerians) are famous for their open ceremonies-parties that are organized in order to mourn and they are all dressed in black and red. We came across a lot of parties where people paid tribute to their great leader under huge tents with a lot of music and dance as well.
Give me more colors! |
We did not like: After Mauritania and Morocco, it was in Ghana that all local merchants and taxi drivers charged with the "tourist tax" that means a 50% higher price at least compared to what locals used to pay.
We saw: Countless coffin-making businesses in every small village and town (second largest business in Ghana), countless churches and other Christian stuff and therefore countless relegionists (the largest business in Ghana), countless schools and schoolboys with colorful skirts.
We heard: All local people used to call us "Obrouni". Obrouni means "white and foreigner" in Ghanaian language.
Average price for diesel 0,78 euro
Local currency: CEDI - Exchange rate: 1 euro ≈ 2,20 CEDI
Driving in Ghana: Perhaps the most crazy and dangerous drivers that have encountered so far in our trip. Incredible speeds and constant overtaking without stop. Tro tros and taxis were the worst ever drivers and they made the life of others difficult. In all cases, the vehicles are devoted to the God, Jesus and any other religious stuff that fills the Ghanaian people's lives. Finally, in one more country, without being able to understand the real reason, we paid tolls. There was also a special category for 4X4 vehicles (0.50 euros).
Average price for diesel 0,78 euro
Local currency: CEDI - Exchange rate: 1 euro ≈ 2,20 CEDI
Tro tro |
Car: No off road, no adventure, nothing at all. It was only 500 km across the coastline for Zikos. The tro tro was so cheap that we were moving on them all the time. That means extra "relax" for him and no money on diesel.
Click here for our photos
ATTENTION FOR OVERLANDERS: If you are looking for a shipping agent to ship your car from Tema, we strongly recommend you NOT TO make use of the company BJH Logistics. Email us for further information.
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